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	<title>The Analytical Kitchen &#187; Pasta</title>
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		<title>Bolognese</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=363</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=363#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Aug 2010 10:56:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=363</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A good bolognese starts with a good soffritto, and I&#8217;ve come to believe the classic use of milk is beneficial. I prefer a 100% durum wheat Italian semolina (non-egg) pasta, but making egg pasta is fun anyway&#8230;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A good bolognese starts with a good soffritto, and I&#8217;ve come to believe the classic use of milk is beneficial.</p>
<div id="attachment_364" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/soffritto.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/soffritto.jpg" alt="" title="soffritto" width="400" height="533" class="size-full wp-image-364" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Soffritto</p></div>
<p>I prefer a 100% durum wheat Italian semolina (non-egg) pasta, but making egg pasta is fun anyway&#8230;</p>
<div id="attachment_365" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/eggpasta.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/eggpasta.jpg" alt="" title="eggpasta" width="400" height="533" class="size-full wp-image-365" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Drying egg pasta</p></div>
<div id="attachment_366" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/bolog2.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/bolog2.jpg" alt="" title="bolog2" width="400" height="265" class="size-full wp-image-366" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Tagliatelle (the real! pasta for) bolognese</p></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>BY Menu, 26 February 2008</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=305</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=305#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Jul 2010 07:48:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Beetroot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dessert]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Icecream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Menu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetarian/Vegan]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=305</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I composed this menu for pesco vegetarians. Goat cheese and chive ravioli, tomato and basil vinaigrette A classic flavour combo that just works so well. The &#8220;vinaigrette&#8221; is more like a light tomato based sauce with sharp acidity. Celeriac soup, &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=305">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I composed this menu for pesco vegetarians.</p>
<p><em><strong>Goat cheese and chive ravioli</strong></em><strong>, tomato and basil vinaigrette</strong><br />
A classic flavour combo that just works so well. The &#8220;vinaigrette&#8221; is more like a light tomato based sauce with sharp acidity.</p>
<div id="attachment_307" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pasta.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pasta.jpg" alt="" title="pasta" width="600" height="401" class="size-full wp-image-307" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Goat cheese and chive ravioli, tomato and basil vinaigrette</p></div>
<p><strong><em>Celeriac soup</em>, beetroot and red wine emulsion</strong><br />
Rob Feenie&#8217;s combo concept-wise. It works pretty well.</p>
<div id="attachment_308" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/soup1.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/soup1.jpg" alt="" title="soup" width="600" height="455" class="size-full wp-image-308" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Celeriac soup, beetroot and red wine emulsion</p></div>
<p><strong><em>Lemon sole</em>, Australian mountain pepper spice, carrot, parsley butter, garlic chips<br />
<em>Halibut</em>, quatre épices rub, poached figs</strong><br />
Essentially two dishes in one, because I just love packing the flavour combos in.<br />
Lemon sole remains a popular N. European fish, particularly in the UK. It&#8217;s a delicate fish with a great flavour, and it&#8217;s also cheaper than Dover Sole. It doesn&#8217;t (or &#8220;shouldn&#8217;t&#8221;) require much treatment, so here I served it with carrot in a parsley butter (coz carrot and parsley work well together, and parsley and butter work well with sole). The garlic crisp and mountain pepper were small touches to just provide some fun (the pepper is a native pepper berry from Tasmania that has quite a hot peppery flavour).<br />
Halibut is amongst my favourite fish, quite unlike many fish due to its firm, almost meaty texture. This fish is great fried, and can take a bit of spice. The figs were essentially poached in port. These components worked surprisingly well together.</p>
<p>The above dishes were served with <strong>Bonneau du Martray</strong>&#8216;s <strong>Corton-Charlemagne 2001</strong>. I not think this worked particularly well, but I am not a fan of BdM&#8217;s CC (the flavours just aren&#8217;t what I look for in white Burgundy) and I may also have been a little tired of it at the time too, since a friend had coincidentally served me blind a different vintage of the same wine a day or two prior. Perhaps I was biased because of this, though really I wouldn&#8217;t expect this wine to work with the above dishes particularly well anyway (this wine was opened for what it was, not for the match it might provide).</p>
<div id="attachment_309" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/fish.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/fish.jpg" alt="" title="fish" width="600" height="401" class="size-full wp-image-309" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lemon sole, Aussie mountain pepper spice, carrot, parsley butter, garlic chips; Halibut, quatre épices rub, poached figs</p></div>
<p><em><strong>“Pepper, pita, feta”</em>: stuffed peppers, feta sorbet, spiced fried pita</strong><br />
A wanted to play around with stuffed peppers. I tend to pack them with rice, herbs, tomato sauce and onion. I find they can work fantastically well with red wine if the acidity is kept high (add plenty of vinegar) and they contain Greek quantities of olive oil.</p>
<p>Paired with <strong>Château Lagrange St Julien 2003</strong>, with which it worked pretty well.</p>
<div id="attachment_310" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pepper.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pepper.jpg" alt="" title="pepper" width="600" height="396" class="size-full wp-image-310" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">“Pepper, pita, feta”: stuffed peppers, feta sorbet, spiced fried pita</p></div>
<p><em><strong>Roquefort cheese</em>, poached pear, spiced toasted walnuts, sweet-wine-poaching reduction</strong><br />
I feel I&#8217;ve refined this composed cheese course dish pretty much to the point of perfection. The flavours just work so well together. The pear is poached in a syrup containing white wine and lemon juice, and the nuts are roasted with a little salt, cardamom, cinnamon (perhaps some black pepper or cumin).</p>
<p>I feel this dish pairs very well with a sweet Loire Chenin Blanc. In this case, IIRC, it was <strong>Baumard&#8217;s 1992 Quarts de Chaumes</strong>.</p>
<div id="attachment_311" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cheese.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cheese.jpg" alt="" title="cheese" width="600" height="401" class="size-full wp-image-311" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Roquefort cheese, poached pear, spiced toasted walnuts, sweet-wine-poaching reduction</p></div>
<p><em><strong>Chocolate dèlice</em>, salted caramel, peanut icecream</strong><br />
Evidently, presentation went a bit wayward.. the diners even joined me in the kitchen at the dish composition phase for some pretty funny cuts and constructions (not shown)&#8230; but it tasted pretty good if I do say so myself. Certainly a rich dessert.<br />
<div id="attachment_312" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/delice.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/delice.jpg" alt="" title="delice" width="600" height="897" class="size-full wp-image-312" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Chocolate dèlice, salted caramel, peanut icecream</p></div></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Simple pasta</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=246</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=246#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Jul 2010 09:20:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=246</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The great thing about pasta is that potential accompanying combos are endless&#8230;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The great thing about pasta is that potential accompanying combos are endless&#8230;</p>
<div id="Fennel pork meat balls" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/fennelmeatballs.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/fennelmeatballs.jpg" alt="" title="Fennel pork meat balls, creamy sauce" width="600" height="450" class="size-full wp-image-600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fennel pork meat balls, creamy sauce</p></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Egg yolk ravioli</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=128</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=128#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Jun 2010 13:19:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Egg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=128</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Inspired by Aki Kamozawa and Alexander Talbot of Ideas In Food, I experimented with the idea of ravioli casings made out of egg yolk. It works pretty well; just need to compose a dish now&#8230;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Inspired by Aki Kamozawa and Alexander Talbot of <em>Ideas In Food</em>, I experimented with the idea of ravioli casings made out of egg yolk. It works pretty well; just need to compose a dish now&#8230;</p>
<div id="attachment_130" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/egg-rav1.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/egg-rav1.jpg" alt="" title="egg rav" width="600" height="450" class="size-full wp-image-130" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Egg yolk ravioli</p></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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