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	<title>The Analytical Kitchen &#187; Coffee</title>
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	<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog</link>
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		<title>Coffee: Finca La Fany</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=705</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=705#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Feb 2013 09:02:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=705</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Finca La Fany, from the Silva family in El Salvador, are beans with a near cult following &#8211; and much loved by home/amateur roasters internationally. The beans are 100% Red Bourbon, and washed and honey processed (i.e., some sugary mucilage &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=705">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Finca La Fany, from the Silva family in El Salvador, are beans with a near cult following &#8211; and much loved by home/amateur roasters internationally. The beans are 100% Red Bourbon, and washed and honey processed (i.e., some sugary mucilage is left on the dried beans lending additional sweetness to the final cup).</p>
<p>It is a consistent and reliable bean that can take a wide range of roast profiles and yet still produce a balanced cup with flavour interest. One of the things I have always liked about it, though, is rarely cited: it throws its chaff early in the roast, which is particularly helpful when pan roasting.</p>
<div id="attachment_829" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Finca.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Finca.jpg" alt="" title="Finca" width="400" height="277" class="size-full wp-image-829" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fina La Fany chaff</p></div>
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		<title>Coffee: Sumatran and Guatemalan</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=775</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=775#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Nov 2012 09:25:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=775</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Guatemala Finca Santa Clara &#8211; a fully washed, air dried Bourbon Sumatran Mandheling Blue Batak &#8211; dry processed Sumatra (I believe) Both received a reasonably gentle roasting that coasted some way into second crack (by perhaps 30 to 60 seconds) &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=775">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Guatemala Finca Santa Clara</strong> &#8211; a fully washed, air dried Bourbon<br />
<strong>Sumatran Mandheling Blue Batak</strong> &#8211; dry processed Sumatra (I believe)<br />
Both received a reasonably gentle roasting that coasted some way into second crack (by perhaps 30 to 60 seconds) resulting in a roast somewhere between City and Full City.</p>
<p>With this darkness, the Blue Batak remains smooth and caramelly, but appears to have lost it&#8217;s animal or subtropical rainforestfloor edge. I see many recommendations for a City+ roast on this bean, but I don&#8217;t think you see the full terroir/typicity of the bean if you go beyond American Roast+. I think I feel the same way about the Finca Santa Clara, but I will reserve judgement until I remind myself with a lighter roast.</p>
<div id="attachment_771" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 460px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/coffeeG.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/coffeeG.jpg" alt="" title="coffeeG" width="400" height="246" class="size-full wp-image-771" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sumatran Blue Batak: single shot espresso with minimal crema</p></div>
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		<title>Coffee: Sumatran comparative</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=625</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=625#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 06:25:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=625</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Sumatran Kuda Mas Mandheling against the Sumatran Blue Batak Mandheling (both roasted some seconds into second crack). Each prepared as a double espresso latte. Kuda Mas: a smooth, bold, dark, toffeed animal with some subtropical rainforestfloor. A denser and &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=625">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Sumatran Kuda Mas Mandheling against the Sumatran Blue Batak Mandheling (both roasted some seconds into second crack).</p>
<p>Each prepared as a double espresso latte.</p>
<p><div id="attachment_626" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/KudaMas.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/KudaMas.jpg" alt="" title="KudaMas" width="600" height="456" class="size-full wp-image-626" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Kuda Mas - second into 2nd crack</p></div><br />
Kuda Mas: a smooth, bold, dark, toffeed animal with some subtropical rainforestfloor. A denser and slightly more complex Sumatran Mandheling.</p>
<p><div id="attachment_627" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/BlueBatak.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/BlueBatak.jpg" alt="" title="BlueBatak" width="600" height="367" class="size-full wp-image-627" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Blue Batak - second into 2nd crack</p></div><br />
Blue Batak: more elegant, smoother, with higher acidity, more fruit, caramelised fruits. A much brighter, more fruity Sumatran Mandheling.</p>
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		<title>Early Spring Menu</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Sep 2011 13:06:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Brocolli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canapé/Hors d'œuvre]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dessert]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eggplant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grapefruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ingredient]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kiwifruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lamb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Menu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nuts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sorbet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Zucchini]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Starter The Tapanappa Pinot Noir 2010 from Parawa, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia, had a nice nose of very dark cherry, some dry brown leaves, a touch spice (cinnamon-like). I&#8217;d like to see more texture on the palate (which was also &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em>Starter</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_569" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dakkacr.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-569" title="dakkacr" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dakkacr.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="420" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Toasted Lebanese bread, eggplant/aubergine puree, dukkah</p></div>
<p>The <strong>Tapanappa Pinot Noir 2010</strong> from Parawa, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia, had a nice nose of very dark cherry, some dry brown leaves, a touch spice (cinnamon-like). I&#8217;d like to see more texture on the palate (which was also a higher acid style and a little short) but this has pleasant flavours (with enough interest). Good for the price, and without meaning to damn with faint praise, would present well as a &#8220;lunch wine&#8221;.<br />
These are eight year old Dijon clone vines that are close-planted (1.5 m by 1.5 m) on a north-facing slope of sandy loam and clay overlying a laterite at 350 m above sea level. Even if this &#8220;only&#8221; received 1283°C days over the growing season, it still smells like &#8220;sweet&#8221; ripe fruit &#8211; so much for &#8220;cool climate&#8221; Australia. Looking at the final analysis, the slightly disjointed acidity makes sense: a TA of 5.8 g/l (as tartaric) with a pH of 3.65 is just too much (highly buffered) acid IMO &#8211; but perhaps my palate just isn&#8217;t Aussie enough? <img src='http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> .</p>
<p><strong><em>Lamb, Med and spring veg</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_570" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/sprlamb.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-570" title="sprlamb" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/sprlamb.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lamb, eggplant purée, zucchini, brocollini, peas, jus</p></div>
<p>Lamb: BBQed eye of rib.<br />
Eggplant/aubergine: baked with soy sauce and tarragon-flavoured white wine vinegar, puréed with a little yoghurt.<br />
Zucchini: sautéed in butter with marjoram.<br />
Brocollini and peas: blanched.<br />
Jus: mire poix-dominant, lamb rack and herb (thyme, bay) reduction.<br />
Chervil and mint.</p>
<p>The brocollini was a little out of place. The lamb/eggplant/zucchini/marjoram/chervil/jus combinations worked very well.</p>
<p>Not a bad combo with a <strong>Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 1999</strong> from Eden Valley, South Australia. It&#8217;s 70% Cab Sauv, 15% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc and smells of very pure ripe, sweet blackcurrant, polish, a touch of tar and wild spearmint. It is well integrated, even if the acid is verging on the high side, and feels more elegantly structured than many of it&#8217;s SA cousins (as the rep goes) even if it does lack length. Easy drinking but not particularly interesting and I still have trouble with the value for money (even at new-release prices).</p>
<p><strong><em>Cheese</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_571" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cheeseki.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-571" title="cheeseki" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cheeseki.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Poached kiwifruit, Tasmanian Heritage Red Square, roasted cashews, kamut croutons</p></div>
<p>The kiwifruit was poached in white wine, sugar and lemon juice from immediately after the syrup had been taken off the heat. This resulted in the fruit&#8217;s flavour being completely altered to something akin to plum or greengauge &#8211; not something I&#8217;d do again, but interesting.</p>
<p><strong><em>Citrus sorbet</em></strong><br />
Orange, mandarin, grapefruit. The madarin adds a background even if its unique flavour is drowned out.</p>
<p><strong><em>Sulawesi coffee</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_572" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Sulawes2.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-572" title="Sulawes2" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Sulawes2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="304" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sulawesi Toraja roasted into second crack</p></div>
<p>The 2009 Sulawesi Toraja again (a wet processed bean with screen size 17/18 and grade GR 1), but here roasted a little further into second crack.</p>
<p>I used to like the idea of a heterogeneous roast yielding flavour complexity (because of the broadened flavour spectrum) but now I&#8217;m thinking the pro roasters might have more reason than consistency in aiming for a homogeneous roast: the slight burn here bothers me.<br />
Nevertheless, this was very robust in the cup (and therefore great as an after dinner coffee), with masses of dark chocolatey cocoa flavour, almost golden syrup-like dark sugar, and some rainforest floor with a slightly animally note.</p>
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		<title>Coffee Roasting: Sulawesi Toraja</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=511</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=511#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 12:22:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=511</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am continuing to enjoy Indonesian coffees. This is a Grade 1 wet processed bean that benefits from a slow roast at low heat (especially in the early stages and between 1st and 2nd cracks). Just into second crack here, &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=511">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am continuing to enjoy Indonesian coffees. This is a Grade 1 wet processed bean that benefits from a slow roast at low heat (especially in the early stages and between 1st and 2nd cracks). Just into second crack here, it showed fruity (almost vinous) aromas, with rainforest floor character and caramel flavours. Low acid but not overly sweet either &#8211; great balance.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Sulawesi.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Sulawesi.jpg" alt="" title="Sulawesi" width="600" height="259" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-512" /></a></p>
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		<title>Coffee Roasting: El Salvador Finca El Carmen</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=430</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=430#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Dec 2010 23:45:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=430</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[City: Ataco Altitude: 1300 metres above sea level Variety: 100% Bourbon Processing: Fully washed and dried on patio Owner: Alfaro family Roast: Heated up slowly to 1st crack, then cruised (slightly lower heat) to near the end of 1st crack. &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=430">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>City</strong>: Ataco<br />
<strong>Altitude</strong>: 1300 metres above sea level<br />
<strong>Variety</strong>: 100% Bourbon<br />
<strong>Processing</strong>: Fully washed and dried on patio<br />
<strong>Owner</strong>: Alfaro family<br />
<strong>Roast</strong>: Heated up slowly to 1st crack, then cruised (slightly lower heat) to near the end of 1st crack.<br />
<strong>Cup</strong>: Almost buttery-smooth, ultra pure flavours of sweet milk chocolate (nice!) and caressing mouthfeel with balanced weight. This is very good, and definitely what I look for in an El Salvadorian.</p>
<div id="attachment_435" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/ElSalvador.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/ElSalvador.jpg" alt="" title="ElSalvador" width="400" height="219" class="size-full wp-image-435" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">El Salvador Finca El Carmen roasted well into 1st crack</p></div>
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		<title>Coffee Roasting: Guatemala Nueva Granada Estate</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=416</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=416#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Sep 2010 02:32:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=416</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An RFA that&#8217;s consistently true to its Central American self. IMO, best roasted just (a few seconds) into second crack. It shows chocolate and caramel with a citrus (orange-like) note; sweet and fairly creamy in the mouth. A very well &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=416">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An RFA that&#8217;s consistently true to its Central American self.</p>
<p>IMO, best roasted just (a few seconds) into second crack.</p>
<p>It shows chocolate and caramel with a citrus (orange-like) note; sweet and fairly creamy in the mouth. A very well rounded coffee that&#8217;s great single origin.</p>
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		<title>Coffee Roasting: Costa Rica Finca la Lia</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=399</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=399#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=399</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From the Ureña family&#8217;s 30 ha farm in the Tarraz&#250; region, grown at an altitude of 1400 to 1600 m. Given a relatively short roast at moderate heat to just into 1st crack. It&#8217;s not as lifted or citrusy as &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=399">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From the Ureña family&#8217;s 30 ha farm in the Tarraz&#250; region, grown at an altitude of 1400 to 1600 m.</p>
<p>Given a relatively short roast at moderate heat to just into 1st crack.<br />
It&#8217;s not as lifted or citrusy as some Costa Ricans, but it is bright and does have good acidity &#8211; all of which I expect in a good Costa Rican. Very light in the mouth and a little weak on (caramel) flavour.<br />
Either this deserves to be taken well into 1st crack (or perhaps even beyond), or it&#8217;s just not great Costa Rican; and the former could well be the case.<div id="attachment_400" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/CostaRicaFLL.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/CostaRicaFLL.jpg" alt="" title="CostaRicaFLL" width="400" height="302" class="size-full wp-image-400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Costa Rica Finca la Lia roasted just into 1st crack (foreground)</p></div></p>
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