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	<title>The Analytical Kitchen &#187; Zucchini</title>
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		<title>Early Spring Menu</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Sep 2011 13:06:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Brocolli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canapé/Hors d'œuvre]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dessert]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eggplant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grapefruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ingredient]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kiwifruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lamb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Menu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nuts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sorbet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Zucchini]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Starter The Tapanappa Pinot Noir 2010 from Parawa, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia, had a nice nose of very dark cherry, some dry brown leaves, a touch spice (cinnamon-like). I&#8217;d like to see more texture on the palate (which was also &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=568">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em>Starter</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_569" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dakkacr.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-569" title="dakkacr" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/dakkacr.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="420" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Toasted Lebanese bread, eggplant/aubergine puree, dukkah</p></div>
<p>The <strong>Tapanappa Pinot Noir 2010</strong> from Parawa, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia, had a nice nose of very dark cherry, some dry brown leaves, a touch spice (cinnamon-like). I&#8217;d like to see more texture on the palate (which was also a higher acid style and a little short) but this has pleasant flavours (with enough interest). Good for the price, and without meaning to damn with faint praise, would present well as a &#8220;lunch wine&#8221;.<br />
These are eight year old Dijon clone vines that are close-planted (1.5 m by 1.5 m) on a north-facing slope of sandy loam and clay overlying a laterite at 350 m above sea level. Even if this &#8220;only&#8221; received 1283°C days over the growing season, it still smells like &#8220;sweet&#8221; ripe fruit &#8211; so much for &#8220;cool climate&#8221; Australia. Looking at the final analysis, the slightly disjointed acidity makes sense: a TA of 5.8 g/l (as tartaric) with a pH of 3.65 is just too much (highly buffered) acid IMO &#8211; but perhaps my palate just isn&#8217;t Aussie enough? <img src='http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> .</p>
<p><strong><em>Lamb, Med and spring veg</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_570" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/sprlamb.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-570" title="sprlamb" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/sprlamb.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lamb, eggplant purée, zucchini, brocollini, peas, jus</p></div>
<p>Lamb: BBQed eye of rib.<br />
Eggplant/aubergine: baked with soy sauce and tarragon-flavoured white wine vinegar, puréed with a little yoghurt.<br />
Zucchini: sautéed in butter with marjoram.<br />
Brocollini and peas: blanched.<br />
Jus: mire poix-dominant, lamb rack and herb (thyme, bay) reduction.<br />
Chervil and mint.</p>
<p>The brocollini was a little out of place. The lamb/eggplant/zucchini/marjoram/chervil/jus combinations worked very well.</p>
<p>Not a bad combo with a <strong>Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 1999</strong> from Eden Valley, South Australia. It&#8217;s 70% Cab Sauv, 15% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc and smells of very pure ripe, sweet blackcurrant, polish, a touch of tar and wild spearmint. It is well integrated, even if the acid is verging on the high side, and feels more elegantly structured than many of it&#8217;s SA cousins (as the rep goes) even if it does lack length. Easy drinking but not particularly interesting and I still have trouble with the value for money (even at new-release prices).</p>
<p><strong><em>Cheese</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_571" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cheeseki.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-571" title="cheeseki" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cheeseki.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Poached kiwifruit, Tasmanian Heritage Red Square, roasted cashews, kamut croutons</p></div>
<p>The kiwifruit was poached in white wine, sugar and lemon juice from immediately after the syrup had been taken off the heat. This resulted in the fruit&#8217;s flavour being completely altered to something akin to plum or greengauge &#8211; not something I&#8217;d do again, but interesting.</p>
<p><strong><em>Citrus sorbet</em></strong><br />
Orange, mandarin, grapefruit. The madarin adds a background even if its unique flavour is drowned out.</p>
<p><strong><em>Sulawesi coffee</em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_572" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Sulawes2.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-572" title="Sulawes2" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Sulawes2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="304" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sulawesi Toraja roasted into second crack</p></div>
<p>The 2009 Sulawesi Toraja again (a wet processed bean with screen size 17/18 and grade GR 1), but here roasted a little further into second crack.</p>
<p>I used to like the idea of a heterogeneous roast yielding flavour complexity (because of the broadened flavour spectrum) but now I&#8217;m thinking the pro roasters might have more reason than consistency in aiming for a homogeneous roast: the slight burn here bothers me.<br />
Nevertheless, this was very robust in the cup (and therefore great as an after dinner coffee), with masses of dark chocolatey cocoa flavour, almost golden syrup-like dark sugar, and some rainforest floor with a slightly animally note.</p>
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