<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>The Analytical Kitchen &#187; Lobster</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?cat=64&#038;feed=rss2" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:20:39 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.3</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Christmas Menu 2012</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=781</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=781#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:30:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Beans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dessert]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Duck]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Egg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eggplant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lamb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lobster]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Menu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mushroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mussel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rhubarb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shellfish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Strawberry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=781</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[White truffle custard, mushroom ragu From the first time I made Thomas Keller&#8217;s white truffle custards I served them with a mushroom &#8220;ragu&#8221; rather than Keller&#8217;s black truffle &#8220;ragu&#8221; of veal stock base. I feel mushroom and truffle is a &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=781">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em><strong>White truffle custard, mushroom ragu</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_782" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasAmus.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-782" title="XMasAmus" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasAmus.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="569" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">White truffle custard, mushroom ragu</p></div></p>
<p>From the first time I made Thomas Keller&#8217;s white truffle custards I served them with a mushroom &#8220;ragu&#8221; rather than Keller&#8217;s black truffle &#8220;ragu&#8221; of veal stock base. I feel mushroom and truffle is a good combo, and never looked back: porcini, chicken stock, perhaps a little vinegar, but no truffle (afterall, the custard is already truffled). I must try Keller&#8217;s version one day, but these aren&#8217;t bad nevertheless.</p>
<p><em><strong>Vanilla-star anise buttered lobster, white wine mussels, lime oysters</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_783" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasSea.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-783" title="XMasSea" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasSea.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="377" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Vanilla-star anise buttered lobster, white wine mussels, lime oysters</p></div></p>
<p>Lobster: warmed in a clarified butter that has been infused with vanilla and star anise.<br />
Mussels: it&#8217;s hard to beat the classic French version, so I didn&#8217;t try &#8211; mussels steamed in a sauce of white wine, shallots and butter.<br />
Oysters: just lime zest and a little lime juice.</p>
<p><em><strong>Duck Salad</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_784" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasDuck.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-784" title="XMasDuck" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasDuck.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Duck Salad: duck confit, roast kumra, butter bean purée, crispy bacon, mâche, raspberry vinegar</p></div></p>
<p>Using only extra virgin olive oil to confit the duck at 90-95°C (195-203°F) yielded a soft texture. The bean purée was prepared by rehydrating dry beans, boiling the beans in herbs (rosemary, bay and thyme), purée-ing, and reducing the purée.<br />
The combination was interesting, but I&#8217;d drop the kumra/sweet potato in future.</p>
<p><em><strong>Lamb medallion, eggplant purée, mint salad, lamb jus</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_785" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasLamb.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-785" title="XMasLamb" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasLamb.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lamb medallion, eggplant purée, mint salad, lamb jus</p></div></p>
<p>Essentially the same dish concept as <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=582">this</a> or <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=438">this</a>, which has become a standard for me. It perfectly suits the use of quality Australian lamb and eggplant/aubergine.<br />
Eggplant: roasted to soft, then finished on the BBQ to add a smokiness before being being puréed, having a little yoghurt added, and reduced to the appropriate consistency.<br />
Mint salad: young mint leaves, dressed in a little rice wine vinegar.<br />
Lamb jus: a standard lamb stock, reduced.<br />
Lamb: BBQed loin meat (only) from the rib &#8211; I feel it&#8217;s the perfect cut for this.</p>
<p><em><strong>Cheese</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_786" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasChee.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-786" title="XMasChee" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasChee.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="463" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Manchego, Comté, English crackers, fresh walnuts, quince paste</p></div></p>
<p>Like any quality ingredient, good cheese (and at over A$100/kg it better be!) needs little doing to it/accompanying it.</p>
<p><em><strong>Carpaccio of summer fruits</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_787" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasFrui.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-787" title="XMasFrui" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasFrui.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="374" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Carpaccio of summer fruits</p></div></p>
<p>Thinly sliced white peaches and white nectarines, dusted in vanilla sugar ground to a powder, splashed with lime juice, and chilled, with a few cherry pieces for contrast. Stone fruit paradise. (Essentially, this is just a refinement of <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=456">this previous execution</a>, wherein the tangelo didn&#8217;t work.)</p>
<p><em><strong>Strawberry and Rhubarb Trifle</strong></em><br />
<div id="attachment_788" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasDess.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-788" title="XMasDess" src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XMasDess.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="734" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Strawberry and Rhubarb Trifle: fresh strawberries, crème anglaise, stewed rhubarb, rhubarb jelly, ginger &#39;crumbles&#39;</p></div></p>
<p>The height of British summer translated to a rainy Australian summer&#8217;s day.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?feed=rss2&amp;p=781</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>An Italian Philosophy</title>
		<link>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=456</link>
		<comments>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=456#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 2011 12:09:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Leek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lobster]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shellfish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Veal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=456</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have realised of late how much my recent approach has been influenced by Italian aesthetics. When short of time for haute cuisine prep, and yet aiming for multi-course menus, and having access to some high quality ingredients, it just &#8230; <a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?p=456">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have realised of late how much my recent approach has been influenced by Italian aesthetics. When short of time for haute cuisine prep, and yet aiming for multi-course menus, and having access to some high quality ingredients, it just makes sense to adopt an Italian-orientated philosophy. That means minimal intervention with the ingredients, and simpler presentations that show the diner those ingredients in a relatively unmanipulated form.</p>
<p><div id="attachment_457" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/lobsterh.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/lobsterh.jpg" alt="" title="Lobster, herb butter sauce" width="600" height="500" class="size-full wp-image-457" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lobster, herb butter sauce</p></div><br />
Butter sauce with chives, fennel, parsley and a little lemon juice.</p>
<p><div id="attachment_458" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/saltimbocca.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/saltimbocca.jpg" alt="" title="Modified Saltimbocca" width="600" height="596" class="size-full wp-image-458" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Modified Saltimbocca: veal, leeks, prosciutto, potato</p></div><br />
The potatoes are par-boiled then shallow fried. Sage is essential in the butter-oil sauce, of course.</p>
<p><div id="attachment_459" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/FruitCarp.jpg"><img src="http://www.brsquared.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/FruitCarp.jpg" alt="" title="Carpaccio of fruit" width="600" height="399" class="size-full wp-image-459" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Carpaccio of fruit</p></div><br />
In accordance with the philosophy, best not to obscure great fruit when you have it.<br />
However, combining the &#8220;Italian philosophy&#8221; with an haute cuisine philosophy begs the question: can this high quality fruit be enhanced? The answer for fruit is to:<br />
(i) boost the acidity (IMO, a fruit-based acidity is best, whether that be wine or citrus juice),<br />
(ii) boost the sweetness (but not too much &#8211; it has to be balanced), and<br />
(iii) cool the fruit.<br />
This enhances the flavour. </p>
<p>Here, it&#8217;s peach, plum and tangelo &#8220;dressed&#8221; with lime juice and vanilla sugar (which, of course, dissolves; especially when ground down). In retrospect, sticking solely to stone fruits would have been better (the tangelo lost it&#8217;s grapefruit lift and became a dull citrus with this preparation).</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.brsquared.org/blog/?feed=rss2&amp;p=456</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
