March 2006 menu

Haggis balls with whisky broth and neep powder
It wasn’t Burns Night, of course, but reinterpreting (at least a little) a Scottish classic was fun. The balls were deep fried (of course, this is Scottish fare!), the swede dehydrated and crushed, the broth was a basic beef stock with Whisky added.

Haggis balls with whisky broth and neep powder

Sweet potato and coriander soup with rouille
It’s a great flavour combo. I did a garlic and herb rouille IIRC.

Green salad with honey-mustard vinaigrette

Salad prep

Green salad with honey-mustard vinaigrette

Prawn and salmon wontons in prawn bisque

Back in the days when Keiko reported more cooking than photography on her Nordljus blog, I was inspired by a Salmon and prawn tortellini in ginger prawn bisque dish she created. I made slight tweeks, but it’s essentially the same concept: salmon, prawn and basil filled wontons; the bisque is made with roasted prawn shells (very important) and the usual suspects (including a decent hit of ginger).

Wonton prep

Prawn and salmon wontons in prawn bisque

Smoked tofu and Guinness pie, crispy rice squares and spiced red lentils

This menu required an ovo-lacto vege main option (which I often think of anyway). This is my vege take on the classic beef and beerstyle pie, with a kind of spicy red lentil sauce instead of ketchup.

OR

Rack of venison, poached pears, wilted greens, celeriac purée and chocolate oil

This is a John Campbell (The Vineyard, Stockcross, UK) dish. I thought the dish an interesting composition (particularly with the inclusion of the pear) but taste-wise I wasn’t sure I was entirely convinced.

Wilted greens

Rack of venison

Selles-sur-Cher cheese with warm beetroot salad

I love goats cheese and I think it works well with beetroot. I was very pleased with my presentation development on this dish. The cheese is accompanied with roast beetroot batons, beetroot powder, lolla rossa (one of my fav lettuces) and a balsamic glaze.

Selles-sur-Cher cheese with warm beetroot salad

Pink grapefruit sorbet with gin and vanilla jus

Rob Feenie’s concept, and an absolutely fantastic combination! I like to throw in some candied peel for extra zest. This is made without pith (of course); simmered for 30 secs, chilled – repeated about 3 times; then finally simmered with sugar until reduced to desired coating.

Pink grapefruit sorbet with gin and vanilla jus

The French Laundry’s Île Flottante

This is a superb reinterpretation of the classic. The meringue is slow baked (in steam) so it’s extremely light. It’s then filled with chocolate mousse. The accompaniments are the classic crème anglaise, a chocolate tuile, bitter sweet chocolate shavings with salt, and mint oil.

The French Laundry’s Île Flottante

Posted in Beetroot, Canapé/Hors d'œuvre, Cheese, Dessert, Fish, Grapefruit, Menu, Salad, Sorbet, Uncategorized, Venison | Leave a comment

Egg yolk ravioli

Inspired by Aki Kamozawa and Alexander Talbot of Ideas In Food, I experimented with the idea of ravioli casings made out of egg yolk. It works pretty well; just need to compose a dish now…

Egg yolk ravioli

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Onions

Where would we be without the onion? Especially the caramelised onion…

Caramelising onions

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Dover sole

Rusticity is often welcome and delicious.

Dover sole, potato, capers, parsley, dressing, Maldon sea salt!

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Foams

Foams get a pretty bad rap these days. Yes, sometimes they can look like something that’s come out of an insect orifice (in which case they probably shouldn’t be on the plate)… but they do have their place.

This one’s a heat-activated Methocel.

Foam

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Baklava

With plenty of spice and honey syrup (no rose water), IMO, Greek-style is best!

Baklava

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Chelsie bun

Back to childhood…

Chelsie bun

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Chinese-style pork belly

I grew up with a Chinese (Cantonese) best friend whose Dad was a chef. The influence has stayed with me ever since.

I love Chinese-style pork belly: slow-braised in soy sauce, rice wine, spring onions, ginger and garlic. It’s rich and meltingly soft.

I decided to give the pork the classic partners of fennel and apple. Here, it’s pickled fennel, apple sauce and a caramel-soy sauce. I think these work well with it because the fennel and apple provide some acidic counterpoint and the sweetness of the sauce matches the sweetness of the pork. This has become a bit of a signature dish of mine.

Chinese-style pork belly, pickled fennel, apple sauce, caramel-soy sauce

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David Everitt-Matthias’ chocolate délice

David Everitt-Matthias’ Essence is a fantastic book showcasing modern British haute cuisine. I particularly love this book because, like him, I have a love of the hedgerow and I also enjoy drawing on traditional British ingredients and preparations.

It contains a recipe for a chocolate délice that’s emulsified with olive oil. It’s quite interesting texturally, and it contains a salted caramel filling.

He pairs it with malted barley icecream, but I really like the idea of chocolate and nuts, so I paired it here with peanut icecream. We liked it, though it can be tricky to get the délice to set right, as can be seen in the photo.

David Everitt-Matthias' chocolate délice with peanut icecream

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Cheesemaking: Feta

I love quality Greek feta. It’s not easy to find feta that balances creaminess, saltiness, acidic bite/piquancy, and a just-firm-enough texture; which are the qualities I look for. For me, it has to have what I call a “belly of the goat” flavour too.

For those interested in the details, my most recent approach is:

A non-traditional milk blend of 25% cow’s milk (Jersey and Guernsey at 5.2% fat, preferrably unhomogenised), with the remainder being goat’s milk.
CaCl (if any of the milk is homogenised) and lipase.
Mesophilic starter. Ripening @ 30 C / 90 F for 1 hr.
Rennet @~0.7 ml/l.
Coagulation (rennet to curd cutting): ~1.5 hrs.
Cuts @ 1 to 1.5 cm, with 45 min wait incuding two stirring interludes.
Draining: ~24 hrs.
Salted @ 50 g/kg and brined @ 8%.
Yield: typically ranges about 15 to 30% w/v original milk.

Cutting the curds

Draining

Feta cheese

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